Tuesday, May 12, 2015

Maple Syrup Time


Today is a beautiful day to be outside!  With temperatures in the 40's, Bob and I decided we needed to get the sugar maple trees tapped today.  Our little bear Hamish, who always loves adventures, wanted to help.  I got out his wooden sled and he got to ride on it and take care of the pail of spiles.
Bob went to "the helpful place", our local Ace Hardware, and bought a new 7/16" bit for his drill.  The portable electric drill was much easier than the old brace and bit he used to use.  Hamish wanted to try everything, but Bob told him he wasn't strong enough to hold the drill or hammer.
Hamish was content to get spiles out of the pail and hold them while Bob drilled.  A pail lid made a pretty good seat.
"Thanks for the spile, Hamish."

"This is fun being inside the pail.  I hope Dad doesn't put the lid down though, while I am in here!"
"Sap tastes good!  Maybe not as good as honey, but my mom said it is much better after is is boiled and made into syrup.  I can't wait, but Dad said it will be a few days before we start to boil it.  We need a lot of pails full.  This was fun!"

A Rya Rug


I had a little bit of warp left after doing some rosepath rugs and decided to try a rug on page 50-51 of this rug book, which is a  favorite of mine. The rug is woven in plain weave, with spots of rya knots.

The rug will be for my granddaughter Hailee.  I'm sure she thought I forgot about her, but I didn't.  It is just that lately, I have more plans than energy.
The rya knots take small bits of yarn, 4" long.  Each knot is three strands.  I cut some thin cardboard 4" wide and about 6" - 7" long and folded them to 2" wide as cutting guides.  I wrapped the triple strands of yarn around the cardboard until I had enough for the knots in one row of the pattern and then cut them on the open side of the cardboard.
The rug has five spots across.  Each spot consists of five rows of knots, separated by a plain weave row. The first and last row of each spot has three knots and the middle three rows have five knots each.
I measured, cut and laid out the yarn for each row.
I marked the reed for the center of each spot. The first row takes the longest because I needed to find the center of each spot.  I started the spot in each row with the center knot.  It took me about 4 minutes to do the first row with fifteen knots.  The rest of the rows took about the same amount of time, even with ten more knots.



To tie a knot, place the three strands under the two warp threads on either side of the mark on the reed.
Wrap them around the two warp threads, making the cut ends even.
Separate the two warp threads and tuck the cut ends between them.
Pull on the tails and slide the knot down to the fell line.
It doesn't have to be real tight because the beater will push them tighter.
Continue adding rya knots on either side of the center one.
Remember to weave a row of rag weft between each row of knots and beat really hard.

When the spot is finished, weave enough rows of rag so the knot fringe doesn't overlap the next row of spots.

Notice the fell line isn't straight around the spot, but within a couple rows it straightens out.
The first row is complete and with a few more passes of the rag weft, it will be ready for the second row of spots. The fringe spreads out nicely even though all the knots are lying in one direction when woven in.

The rag weft is strips of ice dyed sheets, torn about 3/4" wide.  I am using two strips together.  One is pale green and the other is mottled blues, purples, and pinks. It gives a nice variegated look.



Saturday, February 28, 2015

Building a Stand With Treadles for my Leclerc Table Loom

Several years ago, my husband Bob and I designed a loom stand for my Leclerc Jano table loom.  I have had several people since then ask about making one.  We don't do that kind of work for others, but can give dimensions and show photos of how it should look when completed. I finally got around to doing all the measurements today.

This stand fits my 19 1/2" weaving width Jano loom (made before the Dorothys), and also fits my friend's Structo table loom.  With some careful measurements, it could be adapted to other looms with slightly different dimensions.

We used local hard maple from a local mill for the stand.

Although we looked at photos of other loom stands, this one was designed by Bob to my specifications. If anyone makes a stand from these measurements and writes about it, please give a link back to this post.  I am sure you will love your loom so much more with this stand.  It will turn a noisy loom into one that is much quieter.



















Jano Stand right end
Upright end measurements:  3 ½” w, ¾” thick, 26 ½” T
Shelf measurement:  21” L, 6 ½” w, ¾” thick
End base measurement:  2” T, 1 5/8” w, 24 ½” L
Distance between uprights (inner distance):  8 ½ “
Distance from front of base to upright:  2 ¼”
Distance from back of base to upright:  6 ¾”


















Jano Stand right shelf
Shelf measurement:  21” L, 6 ½” w, ¾” thick
Hole for treadle attachment cords:  1” from edge, 1” wide, 4” L, 6 ¾” from back, 10 ¼” from front
 

















Jano Stand left end
Upright end measurements:  3 ½” w, ¾” thick, 26 ½” T
Shelf measurement:  21” L, 6 ½” w, ¾” thick
End base measurement:  2” T, 1 5/8” w, 24 ½” L
Distance between uprights (inner distance):  8 ½ “
Distance from front of base to upright:  2 ¼”
Distance from back of base to upright:  6 ¾”
Lamm pivot attachment measurement:  ¾” thick, 3 ½” w, 8 ¾” L
Distance from under shelf to top of Lamm pivot:  5 5/8”
Cut out on Pivot attachment: 3” x 1 ½”, starting 4 ¾” from the back
¼” pivot rod, cut long enough to stick out for removal if necessary.
5 nylon washers for spacers between lamms











 



Jano Stand
Lamm Pivot Point














Jano Stand back
Back floor brace:  1 ¼” tall, 2” w, 30” L
Back top brace:  ¾” thick, 3 ½” w, 34 5/8” L
Lamms (4): 5/8” w, ¾” T, 33” L
Screw eyes (4): 7/8” from the end
Treadle tie-up holes (6): spaced from the screw eye end, 9”, 11 ¼”, 13 5/8”, 15 ½”, 18”, 20 3/8”  (they will be approximately 2 ¼” apart)















Jano Stand front
Back floor brace:  1 ¼” tall, 2” w, 30” L
Back top brace:  ¾” thick, 3 ½” w, 34 5/8” L
Treadle attachment blocks (2): ¾” thick, 1 ½” w, 4 ½ L
Dowel treadle spacers: 1” dowel, 1 5/8” L
Treadles (6):  ¾” thick, 1 ¼” tall, 18” L.  They taper to ½” tall at the back, from the top edge 6 ¼” from the back.
Holes on the treadles (4): ¾” center to center, starting 13” from the front.














Treadle attachment on front floor brace (centered)
















 
Treadles showing the taper.  
Texsolv cord, standard size
Connecting treadles to lamms (at least 12):  19” each
Connecting levers to eyelets on lamms (4):  28” each

Small “s” hooks (4) for attaching cords to levers.  To remove the loom from the stand, only the “s” hooks need to be disconnected. Loop them around the shelf and hook to the cords under the shelf.  The loom and the stand are easy to transport when disconnected.