Sharon asked me why I used a raddle to thread my linen warp if I was threading F-to-B.
Actually, I didn't use the traditional method of threading because all I had was a large bundle of warp threads, about 4 yards long. It was cut at both ends and there was no cross. This would definitely be considered slow cloth!
Sharon, this threading was kind of a hybrid of front to back. I used a raddle because I started with threading the heddles first from the center out to each side. I put lease sticks in behind the heddles and threaded a cross with it as I was threading the heddles. I tied the warp to the bar on the back beam, and then counted the correct number of ends per inch in the lease sticks and placed them in the raddle. I did that from the center out to the sides also.
I didn't sley the reed till I was all done beaming the warp, so the raddle was used to keep it the correct width. The tow linen was so sticky, I didn't want more than one thing for it to catch on.
I don't usually thread f-to-b, although that is how I originally learned (from Deborah Chandler's book). The multicolored warp with lots of pattern changes that I did for towels a while ago needed to be threaded that way.
If you haven't finished threading your loom f-to-b, find a way to weight your warp as you wind it on the back beam. You can weight it in several bundles, as long as they all have the same amount of weight. Stretch the warp out a ways from the front of the loom to keep tangles to a minimum. Slap the warp to seperate any tangles. Don't pull on individual warp threads. Good luck. I'm looking forward to seeing pictures once you get going on the weaving.
To see Sharon's blog, go to: In Stitches